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How-to: Leather key bar

diy keys leather steel carry keyring craft

34 replies to this topic

#21 Duff72

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 10:36 PM

Great, now I just added another project to my list. Good tutorial for sure.
Goes on my to do list right after 1911 trigger job and right before sanding a deck. I might have to rearrange the list with this snow!
I bet my local Ace hardware would have the Chicago screws, I have a few holsters that use them also, might be able to "borrow" a brass one.
I'm thinking Red Loctite also....

 
tractor supply has them in the section with the horse bridals and such .

 

I didn't know red loctite or threadlocker was a thing, I'll have to experiment with you and Marc's suggestions!

Maybe go with the blue loctite unless you will NEVER change your keys. If you use red loctite you will need to heat it with a torch to break it loose (I'm serious) . The blue will come loose with some effort.
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#22 Preacher

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 06:17 AM

Ben: if you put red loctite on a chicago screw, you will never get it apart again.  Old harley trick: put a dab of silicone sealant on the threads. It will NOT come apart until you want it to, and it will come apart easily when you do.

 

Only way to remove red loctite is with heat, as in torch, which does not bode well with leather.

 

Blessings.


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#23 Glen

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 06:21 AM

  Maybe go with the blue loctite unless you will NEVER change your keys. If you use red loctite you will need to heat it with a torch to break it loose (I'm serious) . The blue will come loose with some effort.

 

So now I know what threadlocker is and understand there are different strengths, (thanks Internet) it looks like the appropriate strength for this application would be 'purple threadlocker' aka Loctite 222.  I think anything else is going to be difficult to remove in such a small size, and thread tape would be too bulky (I read that red needs to be heated to around 300C).  I can't find 222 at a price lower than the cost of all the other parts, [preacher posts his reply as I type this] I might try the silicone sealant (thanks Preacher!) - I should have some bathroom silicone sealant lying about.


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#24 Ben

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 09:19 AM

Thanks for the tip guys, I have been using red Loctite for so long to help new gun sight mounting that I forgot I might need to unscrew that Chicago screw at some point to swap out keys.

Thanks for the heads up.I have 4 capsules of red but no blue. I might try Preachers advice and use silicone. I have tubes of clear silicone sitting around now.


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#25 Sam Robinson

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 02:56 PM

Such a cool idea, when my current leather belt gives way I might try making one of these. Thanks for the heads up on the loctite, i have only ever used red and didn't realise there was other colours.


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#26 Mikkel

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 11:56 AM

Cool job Glen, and Marc as well! I think im gonna give this one a try - thanks for the guide Glen!


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#27 SRich

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Posted 18 July 2015 - 06:00 PM

This is awesome, thanks for taking the time to share. I'm going to add this on my list of things to make!

#28 Greg

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Posted 24 July 2015 - 03:53 PM

I really like this design,I've got some leather scraps lying around that are calling my name to make one of these.Thanks for the inspiration.

#29 Tim

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 02:20 AM

271, Red: High strength threadlocker for larger diameter hardware. 262, Red: High strength threadlocker for for hardware smaller than that which uses 271 (more like heli parts). Either does a good job for our stuff, however. I see 271 most commonly in auto parts stores. 609, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, for mounting slip fit bearings to shafts. An appropriate product for tail boxes. 603, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, similar to 609 but good where the parts may be a little oily. Good for mounting oilite bushings in housings, BTW. 640: Green: Retaining compound, high strength. Similar to 609 and 603. Lacks the oil tolerance of 603. I use it where I might have trouble with adjacent bearing contamination with the product, such as start shaft bearing blocks, since it has a little greater viscosity than 603. 638, Green, rather thick: Ultra strong retaining compound for assemblies with a marked amount of slop in the fit, min 0.004". Don't try to use this stuff for our normal bearings on healthy shafts. It sets almost immediately in the tight gap, and you'll never have the chance to get the bearing into place. 290, Green: Wicking product for thread locking AFTER assembly. Medium strength, much stronger than 242 blue in my experience. Not the correct choice per loctite for bearing mounting. 242, 243 Blue: Classic medium strength threadlocker for most of our threadlocking applications. 243 is the oil tolerant version. 222MS, Purple: Low strength threadlocker for small diameter or otherwise delicate fasteners.

This was found here http://rc.runryder.c...pter/t642764p1/

 

I use the Purple on my Benchmade works well.



#30 Simon grindrod

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 03:53 AM

Just a note for UK based members, getting different colour lock tight is really not as simple as going to the auto parts store. A good Indi might have more then one but halfords staff are going to be floundering.
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#31 Murray Oliver

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 03:52 PM

I use Blue Loctite on my leather work screw applications.


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#32 Tim Kramer

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 04:05 PM

Very nice work, Glen! Thanks for the awesome pictures and steps. I have some scrap leather lying around and live a block from the local hardware store. Looks like a fun afternoon project!


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#33 KlaudeMarks

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 07:31 PM

This is seriously awesome! I like it better than the Keybars and all of the other brands! Well Done


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#34 AUTDadinge

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Posted 15 June 2017 - 02:25 PM

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#35 Josh Walker

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Posted 31 July 2017 - 09:39 AM

OMG! You are so talented! I will for sure try to make it by myself. This thing is so useful!

How many satisfaction do you get of making those? :D

 

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